How to Fix a Dripping Faucet (Step-by-Step DIY)

That slow drip… drip… from the kitchen tap isn't just keeping you up — over a year it's litres down the drain and money on your Calgary water bill. The good news: most drips come from a worn part inside the faucet that costs a few dollars and an hour to replace. Here's how to fix it, step by step.

First, shut off the water

Before anything comes apart:

1. Close the shut-off valves under the sink — turn both (hot and cold) clockwise until snug.
2. Open the faucet to release pressure and confirm the water's off. No flow means you're good.
3. Plug the drain with a rag so no small parts disappear down it.

If there are no valves under the sink, shut off the main and note that as a job worth adding a fixture valve later — having a local shut-off makes every future repair faster.

A quick word on tools: you'll want a set of screwdrivers (flat and Phillips), an adjustable wrench or channel-lock pliers, an Allen key set for handle set-screws, and a small dish to keep parts in order as they come off. Lay them out in the sequence you remove them and reassembly becomes obvious.

Know your faucet type

What's inside decides what you replace:

• Cartridge faucet (most modern single-handle and many two-handle taps) — a cylindrical cartridge controls flow. A worn one is the most common drip cause, and Calgary's hard water speeds that wear by leaving mineral scale on the seals.
• Compression faucet (older two-handle) — uses rubber washers that flatten and leak.
• Ball or ceramic-disc — common in single-handle kitchen taps; uses springs, seals, or a disc cartridge.

Take a photo of the brand and model before you start — it makes buying the right part far easier.

Take it apart and find the worn part

1. Pry off the decorative cap on the handle to reach the screw.
2. Remove the handle screw and lift the handle off.
3. Unthread the retaining nut or clip holding the cartridge or stem.
4. Pull the cartridge or stem straight out. Inspect the rubber O-rings and washers — cracked, flattened, or hardened parts are your leak.

Replace and reassemble

• Bring the old cartridge or washer to the hardware store and match it exactly.
• Smear a little plumber's-grade silicone grease on new O-rings.
• Seat the new part the same way the old one came out (orientation matters on cartridges).
• Reassemble in reverse, hand-tighten, then turn the water back on slowly and check for drips.

Find the drip before you buy parts

Where the water shows up tells you which part to replace:

• Dripping from the spout when the faucet is off → worn cartridge, washer, or valve seat inside the body.
• Leaking from around the base of the handle → an O-ring on the cartridge or stem.
• Water pooling under the faucet at the sink deck → loose connections or a failing seal where the faucet mounts.
• A leak from the supply line underneath → tighten the compression nut, or replace the flexible supply line (a cheap, easy swap).

Pin down the source first and you'll buy the right part once instead of guessing twice.

Quick tip: when you have the faucet apart, swap every rubber part you can see, not just the obvious one — O-rings, seals, and washers. They're pennies, and you do not want to redo the whole job in three months because one tired ring let go.

When to call a Calgary pro

A licensed plumber handles supply lines inside the wall, but for the faucet itself, YOFF replaces cartridges and faucets without the trips to the hardware store. Worth calling if:

• The drip continues after a new cartridge — the valve seat may be worn or pitted.
• A shut-off valve under the sink leaks or won't close.
• The faucet body is corroded and a full replacement makes more sense.

Drip won't quit, or you'd rather skip the disassembly? YOFF faucet and cartridge repair gets it sealed across Calgary. Get a free quote — No Fix — No Fee.